Vegetarian Dogs and Cats?

QUESTION:
“I am a vegetarian and would like to feed my dog a vegetarian diet. What are your thoughts on this and can Preference be fed alone, without the addition of meat, as a complete vegetarian meal?”

ANSWER:

As a vegetarian myself, I understand your desire to pass on your cruelty-free and healthy diet choice to your animal companions.  However, humans are not physiologically the same as cats or dogs.  Their nutritional requirements differ.  A diet choice made for ourselves may not necessarily be what is ideal for our pets.   In my training in holistic animal health and nutrition as well as my own research, I have found that some dogs can survive on a vegetarian diet if their owners are willing to put in the time and effort needed to guarantee it is balanced and nutritionally complete.  This is not an easy task.  My question is this, though technically some dogs may be able to survive on a vegetarian diet, will they thrive?  Here are some thoughts shared on the subject by other holistic-minded animal care professionals:

“Dogs and cats must eat meat.  Neither species is designed to be vegetarian, and although some dogs can eat other protein sources for a short period of time without detrimental effects, this should be done oly under a veterinarian’s supervision.” – Liz Palika, The Ultimate Pet Food Guide.

“….another myth is that dogs are strictly carnivorous and that animal protein must be their chief or only source of nutrition.  Like a person, a dog can be a vegetarian, subsisting on veggies, grains, legumes, oils, and spices, or, for that matter, a lacto-vegetarian, living on a diet of eggs and dairy along with greens and grains.”  – Deva Khalsa, VMD, Natural Dog: A Holistic Guide for Healtheir Dogs.

As the subject pertains to cats, most will agree that cats are true and obligate carnivores, requiring nutrients only adaquately supplied by meat and animal products.  The domestic dog, however is more accurately classified, according to Dr. Richard Pitcairn, as an opportunistic omnivore.  They can meet their nutrional needs from a variety of sources.  The domestic dog differs from the wild dog in many ways.  Their wild ancestors lived in environments with less toxins, often fasted between large meals and got much more regular exercise than do our domestic companions.  They were more able to handle the metabolism of meat-oriented diet.  Today, meat is the most toxin-laden food out there, full of antibiotics, hormones, lead, arsenic, mercury, DDT, dioxin, pesticides, etc.  Pitcairn says, “The long-term effect of all this toxic material – particularly the pesticides and heavy metals – may be increased cancer rates, allergies, infections, kidney and liver problems, irritabilty, and hyperactivy for our pets.” 

The Vegetarian Society of the United Kingdom has reported that a vegetarian (not vegan) diet has successfully been fed to both dogs and cats.  The exampel of such a diet includes: whole grains, milk, cheese, eggs, ground nuts and TVP (textured vegetabel protein) or legumes, and raw/or cooked vegetables, whole-wheat bread, brown rice, sprouts, fruit, whole carrots and hard, whole-grain biscuits.

 CJ Puotinen (who was a vegan for many years) shares her opinion on the matter in The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, “To my knowledge, no spiritual or religious leader has ever suggested that dogs or cats be deprived of meat, for doing so would violate the laws of nature. Some have argued that dogs can vegetarians without much trouble but cats, who are true carnivores, cannot.  It’s true that dogs can survive on vegetarian fare, but do they thrive? The supplements that would make the most difference for vegetarian dogs –bone meal, glandular concentrates, fish oils and whole-food extracts containing liver and other organs- come from animal sources and are therefore inappropriate. It is a dilemma.” 

Her conclusion? “In the end, each owner makes a personal choice, and that choice must be respected.  I hope that everyone who lives with a dog or cat will let thousands of years of natural selection define their canine and feline menu planning.  If that isn’t possible, I hope they will do whatever they can within the constraints of their philosophy to provide the nutrition their animals require.  When all is said and done, love is probably the most important ingredient in any animal’s life.”

If you look at your dog’s teeth, you will notice a big difference from ours.  This is because a dog’s jaw and teeth were generally designed to tear meat and flesh from animals.  They do not grind their food up the way humans do before swallowing.  Also, a dog’s digestive tract is much shorter than ours, designed to digest and metabolize a meat-based diet.  Though our domestic dog (canis lupus familiaris) has evolved to live with humans and are better able to thrive on a much more varied diet, their physiology still retains much of the design and nutritional needs of their ancestors.   Ultimately, as Puotinen has said, the decision for or against feeding a vegetarian diet to your dog lies with you and your veterinarian.  Our Preference vegetarian base mix is not designed as a nutritonally complete food if fed on its own.  This is intended for use as a supplement or base to a diet including fresh meat or raw meaty bones.  Please do plenty of research, make sure you are taking the time to do it right and consult with a traditional or holistic vet that can help guide you to what is best suited for your dog.  If you do not already have a holistic vet, please visit www.ahvma.org to find one near you.

Ask Lucy: How much meat to add to Preference?

Michele Neiman Cole asks this on our Facebook Page: “I have a precious 3.5 lb Maltese, Holly. Her post fast bile acid levels are slightly elevated at 42, so it is possible she has mild MVD (Microvascular Dysplasia). Therefore, it is suggested we keep her on a diet with lower protein levels like your Force. We are currently using your Preference as her holistic vet likes us to rotate proteins every 3 months. Ideally, she should have no more than 20% protein in her diet.

So how do I figure out how much protein to add to her Preference? Also do you know what the protein % will be in your new Zeal? We are so excited to try it since she is also limited in the types of proteins she can eat…cold water fish, chicken, turkey, (other fowl), and eggs are pretty much all we can give her. She cannot have any red meats or lamb. We are also using Milk Thistle to help support her liver. Thanks so much for your help. We love your food and commitment to keeping such high and human grade standards!! :)

It’s important to remember that the guarantees on our packaging actually represent the ‘out of the box’ analysis of the food, and do not account for the profile of the product after it’s been re-hydrated.  So the first thing to establish here, would be whether your vet is basing the 20% protein guideline on an as-fed or dry matter basis.

If we assume that the percentage protein that your vet is looking for is as-fed, we know the Preference protein is 6% as-fed. So if you combined that with an equal amount of something like raw chicken backs – meat only -  which is about 20% protein you would end up with 20% average protein in the finished meal of half Preference and half chicken.

If you wish to have a slightly higher percentage of protein in the finished meal, then you could feed 2 parts chicken to each part Preference for an average protein percentage of 15.3%. You could add an egg to this meal to increase the protein even further if you wish.

Remember that kibbled diets have an artificially ‘elevated’ percentage of protein because they are so low in moisture – and dogs will obviously drink a lot more water when fed kibble, thus ‘diluting’ the percentages of nutrients internally, after consumption.

The new Zeal formula is actually quite a high protein recipe – it’s about 36% on an ‘out of the box’ basis, or 18% as fed (after re-hydration).

I know this is confusing to begin with but hopefully it helps a little in reaching what your vet is looking for from a nutritional standpoint. You can get info on all sorts of different foods form the Nutrition data web site: http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/poultry-products/692/2

Love and Understanding

When Susan first met Connor, his medical file was over an inch thick (see below). Conner, an Airedale, had a long history of GI problems and was at the vet many times each month with his previous owners. It finally became too much for them, financially, time and his “accidents” (he suffered from diarrhea and vomiting). They gave him to a rescue, so that someone might be able to ‘fix’ him.

Susan did.

“I got him 2 weeks after he was given up and he did have those same digestive issues with me. I immediately went on a hunt to find the very best food for him that I could. I have Celiac Disease and can’t eat any gluten so I figured I’d try him on a grain free/gluten free diet. I mixed the HK into Connor’s food and he began to get better quickly. I probably rushed the switch to HK but he so quickly seemed better. His GI system got straightened out almost immediately and his behavior changed in a major way. We have seen an amazing difference in this dog in so many ways. Once I started him on Thrive his “issues” cleared up in a few days and have never come back (its been 6 months so I’m sure we are good to go). To help ease Connor’s sensitive tummy I added Perfect Form and he loves that too. Everything about him is normal and my vet says he is a normal healthy dog that just need a serious diet change.

I just wanted you all to know, not only how much I love the food, Thrive but how nice and helpful the entire staff is.”

Summer Sun Protection

Question“I take my dogs to the beach and to the park a lot, especially during the Summer. Do I need to worry about them getting sunburned? What can I do to protect them?”

Answer: The simple answer to your question is an indisuputable YES! Dogs are susceptible to sunburn, too, especially light-colored, thin-coated and hairless breeds.  These dogs have less natural protection from the sun’s ultraviolet rays.  The longer-haired and dark-skinned breeds are less at risk because their hair covering and pigment offer them natural protection.  The following is a list of breeds that are especially sensitive to sun exposure:

  • Australian Shepherd
  • Bull Terrier (white)
  • American Staffordshire Terrier
  • Beagle
  • Boxer (The Boxer has the highest rate of skin-cancer than any other breed!)
  • Bulldog
  • Chines Crested
  • Collie
  • Dalmatian
  • Great Dane
  • Greyhound
  • Italian Greyhound
  • Shetland Sheepdog
  • Whippet

Collies, Shelties and Australian Shepherds are particularly affected by Nasal Solar Dermatitis (sunburned nose) but this can affect any dog with a pink or white nose.  And dogs living in the southwest states of the U.S. – Arizona, Southern California, Nevada, New Mexico and Texas- are more at risk simply because the sunlight is so intense.  These dogs must be given extra protection of outdoors a lot in these areas.   Also, dogs in higher altitudes -such as in the Rocky Mountain regions- can suffer from snow-reflected ultraviolet sun damage.  These dogs need extra protection, too.

Here are some things you can do to help protect your dog and prevent them from suffering the damage from overexposure:

  1. If you have a high-risk dog, keep them out of the direct sun from 10am-2pm when the sun is strongest.
  2. Have your dog wear a T-shirt while they are exposed to the sun.
  3. Make sure to provide plenty of shade, espcially over your dog’s favourite outdoor areas.
  4. If you have a dog that likes to sunbathe indoors, in the direct light streeming throught the windows, pull the drapes or close the door to these sun-filled rooms from 10am-2pm.
  5. Spray (or apply) your dog with a children’s sunblock with an SPF of at least 15 on sensitive areas.

If you choose to use a T-shirt, be gentle putting it on. Not all dogs enjoy being “dressed up”.  Start by easing the shirt over your dog’s head and then gently placing his front legs through the arm holes.  The body of the shirt should cover most of your dog’s torso.  For toy dogs, an infant shirt will usually fit. For small to medium dogs, a child’s shirt will do. And, for larger breeds, try one of your own adult t-shirts.

If you choose to use a sunscreen, choose a non-toxic one with an SPF of 15 or greater. Avoid ones that contain zinc-oxide or PABA which can be harmful if swallowed. (There are many natural products now available.) Apply sunblock at least 15 minutes before sun exposure and try to distract them right after you’ve applied it so that it has time to dry before they try to lick it off. If you’re lucky, they may even forget it’s there!   Remember that no sunblock is 100% effective and even the waterproof formulas need to be reapplied after some time and after water exposure such as at the beach.  Though the spray-on formulas are much easier to apply than rub-on lotions, be careful that your pet does not inhale it. It is best to apply outdoors in the fresh air.

Resources:

The Dog Bible: Everything Your Dog Wants You To Know, Tracie Hotchner

An all natural sun spray for dogs.

Some information about natural sunblocks available.

“Snake Busting”: Keeping your pup safe from snakebites.

Question: “I have just adopted a 3 year-old Lab mix and would love to take her out on hikes with me. She has not had much training and I am no expert. I have heard heartbreaking stories of dogs that have been bit by rattesnakes and want to do whatever I can to avoid this happening to my new girl. What can I do to protect her?”

Answer: Congratulations on your new canine friend and for adopting one in need of a new home. I also commend you for your desire to be informed about snakebite prevention so you can help avoid the suffering this can cause.   If you don’t feel you have the training skills yourself, I recommend hiring a qualified dog trainer to do this for you since success could be a matter of life or death.  If you do a search online and type in “snake avoidance”, “snake proofing”, “snake busting”, etc. you will find a long list of trainers, schools and classes that offer to train your dog to avoid snakes using methods involving an “e-collar” or “shock collar”.  This uses the Negative Reinforcement technique, a form of Operant Conditioning as as described by B. F. Skinner.

Using Positive Reinforcement techniques, some trainers feel that you can also train your dog to avoid snakes by first training the “LEAVE IT” command.  Once you have successfully trained your dog to “leave” or turn away from other objects reliably, begin teaching him to avoid or turn away from a toy or plastic snake.   Some professional trainers feel that this is not as reliable a method and prefer to utilize the dog’s sense of smell, sight and sound to teach them snake avoidance and aversion.

Regardless of which method you choose, do whatever you can to keep your pet from coming into close contact with venomous snakes in your area by following some of the basic practices:

  • Keep your dog on leash when in an area where snakes are present.
  • Ask your vet about a rattlesnake venom vaccine.
  • Make sure you know where the nearest emergency animal hospital is to where you will be hiking, camping or out with your dog.  And make sure they stock rattlesnake antivenin.
  • If you see a rattlesnake, do not approach it or try to kill it. If in close range, remain still. Rattlesnakes respond to movement.
  • If far enough away, alter your course to avoid the snake.
  • NEVER encourage your dog to approach or try to kill a snake.

Here are some resources for further reading and information:

Snake Avoidance Training

Snake Proofiing

Snake Avoidance utilizing the ”leave it” command

Snake Avoidance training techniques

Choosing a trainer  with The Association of Pet Dog Trainers

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